Now, I'm planning on a second (or third) post about backings, but this one is a quick one to help you figure out just how much yardage you need.
If you're having your quilt finished on a long-arm, usually the rule of thumb is you need at least 4"-6" of extra backing per side. Let me repeat that, 4"-6" PER SIDE. This is where I personally have the most issues when receiving backings to quilt. We need that extra fabric, it's not an option.
To make this as easy as possible, I usually figure on adding 10" to both the length and width of the quilt to find out the size I'll need. (I'll expain later why exactly you need so much).
So, how do you figure it out?
Here's the four main options for piecing a back (if needed). First is no seam, the quilt will fit on one width of fabric. This is usually for small quilts or if you plan to use a wide backing.
Seams can also go vertical or horizontal and if the quilt is large enough, it may require more than one seam.
To figure out how much you need, start with the quilt size. If you're not exactly sure, always round up, never down. As I mentioned before, I usually add 10" to both the length and the width to figure out the minimum backing size I need:
Quilt is 53" x 70"
Figure backing at 63" x 80"
Now, I always start with the larger number first to see if I can fit it within the width of fabric. Most fabrics come 44"-45" or so they say. By the time you add in the seam and factor out the selvages, I use 40" as a usable width which leaves some wiggle room.
So the larger number will fit within the larger number twice (80/40=2) So I need two pieces of backing. Still with me?
Now how wide do both of those pieces need to be? We figured the backing needs to be 63" wide at least. This happens to be 1 3/4 yards wide. SO I will need two pieces 1 3/4 yards. Times two pieces I need 3 1/2 yards of backing.
But what is the exception to the rule? Say you have a quilt 70" x 90". Figure the backing then at 80" x 100". The width now is close to the 80" mark and you can get two widths of fabric to cover this span. This time you can run the seam vertical and save some yardage. here's how:
Two widths of fabric for the width, now figure the length of the quilt: 100" you'd need around 2 7/8 yards or you can round up to three to make it easier. Times two pieces equals 6 yards of backing. (or 5 3/4 if you didn't round up)
If you wanted to piece horizontally, you'd need 3 widths of fabric to cover the length. to figure out the width, you'd need three pieces 80" wide. Now that's 2 1/4 yards per piece. Times three pieces equals 6 3/4 yards. That's an extra 3/4 of a yard and an additional seam that would need pieced. Yuck!
If all of this math gives you a headache, first off I'm sorry, and any quilt shop should be able to help you figure out exactly how much you need. I will be back soon with the reasons why you need that much backing and how to properly prep your backing for quilting. Stay tuned!
Showing posts with label Back to Basics. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Back to Basics. Show all posts
11.23.2013
1.01.2013
2012 In Review
So this year has been one for the books and I have a feeling 2013 will be even better! How about we take a trip down memory lane and revisit some of your favorite posts from the past year?
Recipes
Recipes
Tutorials
Back to Basics
Machine Quilting
Whew! What a list! Oh, and just one more reminder of exciting news from 2012:
My Book! I can't believe we're just over a month away from it's arrival! February 12th will be here before I know it. I will keep you posted on book signings and review some of the quilts in the book in the future. (Remember to reserve your autographed copy by clicking here)
If you click on the title for any of the posts listed above I have them all linked to the original post.
To start off the new year we're planning on bowling with family, dinner with friends and I get to have a mini retreat with some friends sewing at the quilt shop! I'm really looking forward to the quote-unquote "relaxed" pace these next few days. It seems spending time with friends and family gets harder and harder so I'm trying to make a conscious effort to slow down and enjoy when I can.
Well, I wish you and yours a wonderful, healthy and happy New Year! Thank you soooo much for stopping by and being a part of this crazy journey of mine. Who woulda thunk? I never thought this is what I would be doing at this stage in my life but I honestly couldn't be happier with how the journey is going. 2013, here I come!
12.26.2012
Back to Basics: Batting
This topic unfortunately is very vague due to the fact that batting is more of a personal preference than anything else. It's kinda like the whole Ford vs. Chevy thing. They're both cars, they both get you from Point 'A' to Point 'B', but people tend to like one more than another without explanation.
I'm going to first list the different types of battings available and what I know and like from personal experience. I then will give you some checkpoints to keep in mind when selecting your next batting and give you links to some major manufacturers of batting and their information about each product they provide.
Cotton - I personally like this batting for quilts that are going to be well used. I keep this in mind with anything that is potentially going to be washed often. Cotton fibers are meant to stay together and wear well over time. However, this batting typically is not good for hand quilting, it's very dense and hard on hands and needles.
Poly - This is my go-to batting at the moment. It's relatively cheaper than cotton but with new style poly battings, it's similar in feel and wear ability. Poly battings now-a-days are much smoother and softer than they used to be. There are still some "brillo pad" poly battings available - my tip with these is to avoid them at all costs. If the batting doesn't feel nice to the touch, why put it in a quilt?
Blends - These tend to combine usually cotton and poly, but other blends are available. The benefit with using a blend is usually getting the best of both worlds, being whatever they used to make the blend. For instance in a cotton/poly blend, you can get the wear ability of cotton with a price closer to that of poly. More blends are available, research the two (or more) products that were blended to see what benefits may be in store for the type of project you are working on.
Exotics - Anymore they are making batting out of just about anything. With exotic battings you will find bamboo, silk, fire resistant materials, recycled pop bottles, and many more types made out of various materials. Some of the benefits with these battings include lighter weight, better "hang" or just greener materials. I'm sure if you haven't already you'll see more and more of these styles on the market.
Wool - The grand-daddy of them all! Wool is a great batting. It's virtually resistant to wrinkling which makes it great for show quilts that may go from being folded for a long time to hanging beautifully in a short amount of time. This benefit also comes with a hefty price. Wool is typically much more costly than other battings.
Specialty - This really isn't a category, but it is... In this section I've included fusible and heat-purposed battings. Many manufacturers now have some type of fusible batting on the market. There are staples like Pellon that have been available for years, but companies like the Warm Company are making your favorite battings into fusible styles now too. The heat-purposed battings include Insulbrite, Warm Tater (Warm Company) and others that are made to be used in either high heat situations or food preparation. These are great for hot pads, iron covers, potato sacks and many other things.
Checklist - What really determines for me what type of batting I need is what do I plan on for the future of my quilt. Is it going to be chewed on, dragged around and washed often? Is it going to hang there and look pretty and that's it? And a few other things like:
Shrinkage - How much will this shrink once washed? Some styles are more prone to shrinking than others. It should say on the manufacturer's website or package label as to the specifics.
Loft - how thick is the batting? Just because a batting is thicker may not mean it's warmer. If possible, try to feel a piece of the batting first. The more air and "squish", the cooler it will be. This also could mean it's not a good quality though too. Denser battings are best (personally)
What Type of Quilting - as I mentioned before, poly is great for hand quilting but cotton isn't so great. Determine what style of quilting you're going to do or have done and choose from there. On the manufacturers websites, some of them give detailed information about what style of quilting works best with certain products.
Density of Quilting - this is very important with T-Shirt quilts or other designs that can't be quilted in certain areas. Some battings need quilting as close as 4" and other may not require batting for 12" or more. If you choose a batting that requires quilting every 6" and only quilt every 10" or so, expect your quilt to act like a comforter over time - all that batting will fall apart and end up in one corner or another.
Color - This is one of those small details people overlook. It's easy to think color doesn't matter, but it does! When your fabrics include anything considered "white" DO NOT use a "natural" color batting. The natural color of the batting is typically tan or creamy and can make your white fabrics look dingy or dirty even when they're not. A white batting is best with any white or near white fabrics. Also on the flip side, for quilt tops that use primarily dark colored fabrics, black colored battings are available. I personally have never had the opportunity to use a dark batting as my projects include many fabrics from light to dark.
That about covers the wide spectrum of topics associated with choosing battings. Just remember that whatever you choose, if it comes out of a package where it's been rolled or folded for long periods of time, it needs to air out for a short period of time. It's usually best to air it out overnight prior to working with it. It'll help get rid of the wrinkles that may have set in. Below you'll find the websites for manufacturers that I've found. If you have time be sure to check into the details they list and see what batting would work best for you and your projects. Either that or bookmark this page and revisit it when you do have time. Thanks for listening and let me know what batting you like and don't like. There's so much more information that couldn't be crammed in here, remember to share any helpful hints you may have in the comments below!
Manufacturer's Websites:
Quilter's Dream Batting
The Warm Company
Pellon
Mountain Mist
10.01.2012
Back to Basics: Pressing vs. Ironing
It's one of the most debatable topics in the quilting world. Pressing vs. Ironing. What really is the difference and how does it affect you? Let's discuss the topics!
Heat: How hot should you set your iron?
This really depends on the fabrics being used or the technique you're using to quilt. With most quilts you're going to be using 100% cotton which needs to be pressed with a really high heat. However certain applique methods or embellishments that may have been added will reduce your overall heat so you don't melt or destroy the other materials.
If you plan on using anything other than just fabric (including glues, beads, ric-rac, etc.), check the heat tolerance of the added materials before pressing.
One last note on heat, if you press anything that is pinned, also be aware of which pins can tolerate heat and which ones will melt and cause you a lovely hot mess (and it will be). The packaging should state if the pins are heat resistant. If there is nothing stated on the package, they'll probably melt.
Steam: To steam or not to steam?
This is not really a fact vs. fact topic. It's more of a personal preference really. I steam. I love my steam but I don't use so much of it that I receive a facial every time I use my iron.
Too much steam can really be a bad thing. Depending on whether the fabrics being used have been prewashed or not, the fabrics may wrinkle and distort with too much steam.
On the flip side, I find that if no steam is used I don't get the nice sharp edges to my pieces that I like. It might be flat for a few minutes, but as soon as you come back to the pieces they've already started to retaliate and fold back.
Also, if you do decide to steam, rather than using tap water in your iron it's a good idea to use distilled water. It reduces the impurities that may be in water as well as many other minerals and added chemicals designed to enhance tap water. These have a tendency to build up in your iron over time and can actually shorten the life of your iron.
Starches: Starch, alternatives or nothing?
I love and use starch alternatives. My favorite is actually Mary Ellen's Best Press. When I first started quilting I used spray starch in a can. It works well, it's cheap, but it blobs and can leave white spots all over your nice dark fabrics.
The starch alternatives have nice smells (or come unscented for those people with allergies), they do not color or blob, and they work.
You can opt to not use any starch-ish product, but some pieces should require just a tad of stabilization. For instance, anything that you need to cut which will end with an exposed bias edge (remember, bias is a four letter word for a reason) will behave better if it has been starched.
Starches should be used in moderation if you do decide to use them. They have saved my life more than once... I'm notorious for washing fabrics, throwing them in the dryer and forgetting about them. Then I "touch up" the load and forget again. And again. By this time the wrinkles have really set in. A spritz of the starch will erase many of those wrinkles and voila! No wrinkles anymore. Remember a light spritz is all you need.
When I'm machine quilting, I can tell which fabrics that have been starched and which have not. Some of my customers may be a bit "starch happy" and it really dampers the quilting process. If the starch is heavy and uneven it can effect the tension and it makes the machine labor more than it should. If you're trying to go for that military quality stiffness, try that on your clothes, not your quilts.
Pressing vs. Ironing: The Debate!
Essentially pressing is what most quilt patterns call for and ironing is what you do to your laundry.
Pressing means to "press" your fabric. You place your iron in a space for a small span of time and do not move it in any direction. Then you would pick up your iron, position it again in a place, and continue to do this.
Ironing is what we're all used to. You put the iron down, run it over the fabric like a Zamboni and cover the entire area before you lift the iron. In the quilting world this is bad... And I know it's hard to break that habit. I still find myself ironing from time to time because it may be faster, but it is less accurate.
Below I have my guide on how to press and not iron, step by step.
Depending on how you press (either away from you or towards you), lay your piece on the ironing board.
Take a hot iron and place it directly over the piece and PRESS for just a second or two to heat up the seam. This will set your seam allowances which makes the fabrics behave a but more.
I open the fabrics and making sure that I do not distort the straight line of the seam, use my fingers to press the fabrics open. (This is why the iron is only used a second or two, you don't want to burn your fingers here)
With just a simple finger press, your piece should lay open but not entirely flat.
*Note - do not distort the fabrics or pull them open during the above stage or any listed below. Pull, tug, stretch, and any of their cousins are not allowed in pressing. The heat and steam make the fabrics vulnerable to manipulation and once they cool, they're set in whatever state they've been put in - good or bad. Think of when you curl your hair, the same principles apply here.
PRESS the iron over the seam again and remember not to move it. This should be a short time, like a few seconds. If it doesn't lay flat initally, press for a few more seconds until it's done.
Your seam should lay nice and flat like the above. If there are many contrasting seams in a piece or much bulk in the seam allowances, it may not lay this flat (and that's okay). There are ways to avoid bulk in seams, but that's for another day.
Remember that note about manipulation earlier? One of these blocks has been pressed and one has been ironed. Can you tell which one?
This one was pressed. It is accurate and square. The edges of the block are straight.
This block was pressed. The sides are straight, but the bottom has contrasting edges. One side is almost 1/4" longer than the other.
Look at it again. Can you notice the difference now?
Every step you do in quilting should have accuracy as a common goal. The quilt block that has been ironed may not seem all that bad when you think about it. But try to make a quilt with that many seams 1/4" off here and there. Like a king size quilt. Overall you could have inches of difference in theory from one side to another. It does happen and yes I've seen it before. It's not pretty.
So let's review the things to avoid. If you think of certain topics as road signs, it may help:
Ironing. Winding Road. Same thing. Don't do it. Okay, well you can iron your fabrics prior to cutting, but after that all you should do is press. I know it may seem tedious, but try it once and I'm sure you'll notice a difference. It makes life so much easier!
Uneven Pavement. Uneven Seams. You don't want to pull on your seams, but you don't want any pockets created by a fabric hanging over another beyond the stitching line either. These may not be that noticeable to some, but these will be found during the quilting stage... Usually when you run it over and it gets stitched down folding the fabric in a not so lovely manner... Press the seams flat without pulling the fabrics apart.
*Side note, opposite the above tip you should not be able to see the threads used for stitching the pieces together.
And finally, avoid bumps in the road. When ironing, you may accidentally put a wrinkle into your fabrics without knowing it until it's too late. When you press, wrinkles are nearly impossible.
So, is your head spinning with all this information? Sorry for the long post but there's really no easy way to break this topic apart.
Did any of the information help? Do you have a tip that will help others that I didn't mention? Please leave a comment below!
Don't forget to check out the other topics in the Back to Basics series by going to the Tutorial page (at the top of the blog) for more discussions. I'll be adding more to this series and if there's anything you'd like to discuss, please don't hesitate to ask. Look in the future for more topics like Batting Choices, the Machine Quilting Process, Adding Borders, and much much more.
6.13.2012
Back to Basics - Irons
So, after my recent purchase of an iron, it got me thinking about all the options you should think about when selecting an iron yourself. So how about we check out all that irons have to offer!
The biggest difference I noticed when checking out the options during my recent shopping trip were the plating options on the irons themselves. Above you can see my old iron on the left with the regular plating and the new iron with the teflon coating.
I honestly don't have much of an opinion between the two. They both seem to work the same to me.
Another important option when looking at the plates are the holes for venting steam. My old iron had plenty (or so I thought)
Until I got my new iron. I like having all of the steam capability, but it's almost too much sometimes. And yes, I steam when I press and iron.
My old iron had only one set of controls that included both steam and heat. If you had the higher heat options it included heat.
If you used the lower levels you got a dry heat, no steam included.
My new iron has a better option if you ask me. In quilting we almost always use cotton which require high heat, but I don't always want steam. And if I just filled the reservoir in my iron, it just didn't work well sometimes to empty it neatly.
The new iron has separate controls, one for steam...
And one for heat. This I really like and have used already.
Most irons have controls for an extra burst of steam or a spray of moisture on the handle.
Both of the irons I've had have them located in roughly the same area.
I also like to consider the overall shape of the iron. I liked my old iron better in this aspect since it had an area that was straight(ish) and helped when pressing, especially borders or long strips. I like to use the straight(ish) part to help press everything evenly.
The new iron doesn't seem that different than the old one, but it's just curved enough that it's not as nice for the long strips like the old one.
Also, a new feature I wish I had was a retractable cord. I didn't have one before, but I had a nice long cord which made life easier, especially when pressing backings or large quilt tops.
The new cord is just as long as the old one but is retractable.
How wonderful is that?! I'm loving it. It makes clean up for when I move my ironing board back into the quilting room easier. It's also a nice feature to consider if you travel to sew or if space is an issue.
One of the last features that you should also consider when purchasing an iron is the weight of it. If it's too heavy and it makes your wrist want to fall off after a few minutes of pressing, it's not going to work. Most stores have a display available where you can actually hold and inspect the irons. Weight is also an important feature if you have any injuries or issues like carpal tunnel, rotator cuff injuries, tennis elbow, etc.
Most important aspect to consider when purchasing an iron is the cost. Both of my irons cost less than $20 and the first one lasted me about 5 years of pretty heavy abuse. Just because something is shiny and expensive doesn't mean that it's better than the other options on the market. I know far too many people that have spent way too much on an iron to only have it die on them a few months later... I know you get what you pay for typically, but not from what I've seen in the iron market.
The last bit of advice I can give you is to do some research before you buy anything and look up other customer reviews on the products you're thinking about buying. It's typically unbiased opinions that might bring to light an issue you might not have considered.
I'll be back soon with the struggle of steam v. no steam and ironing v. pressing.
So what kind of iron do you own and are there any features you like on your iron I didn't list about mine? Any troubles you've had you would like to share?
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)










































